Turbo System & Motor Build |
Fabrication - air, fuel, exhaust Click the thumbnails below to view a larger-sized image. |
A different spare motor is providing a means to do mock-up of all the external parts. It is much easier than trying to do any of this on the motor that is still in my '92. Plus, I don't want to wait to have the replacement motor built before I start putting everything else together. |
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The log-style manifold was bolted to the head. An important task at this point was to decide how the turbo was to be mounted on the manifold. The photo shows it with the majority of the turbo in the "UP" position which would provide the best way to route the exhaust. With the turbo in the "DOWN" position, the exhaust would be way too far toward the driver's side of the car and interfere with intercooler piping. |
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Since the intake manifold will eventually be powdercoated, the clearcoat will need to be stripped. I did this with a chemical stripper and wire brush for the one I'd previously powdercoated (see it HERE), and it was very labor-intensive. I decided to have this one sandblasted instead. In addition to removing the clearcoat for powdercoating, removal is also required prior to welding the bungs on the underside which will hold the four additional fuel injectors. |
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On the backside of the motor, four additional injector bungs will be welded into the bottom of the intake manifold. It will take some time to determine the proper angle and placement so that the additional fuel rail doesn't interfere with block reinforcement ribs and the alternator (not shown in photo, but it would be on right side under intake manifold). |
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The look of the rough and dull cast finish on the aluminum compressor housing is already bothering me, as I know that there is a smooth finish that is under it just waiting to be let out. The housing was removed from the turbo, and after a few hours of wet-sanding and machine buffing, it ended up looking like the photo on the left. It isn't show-quality, but it is smooth enough to be powdercoated with great results. |
Here are a few close-up photos of the entire turbo. You can also see that I've smoothed the turbine housing a bit. I took the sharp edges off, removed the casting lines, and cleaned it up in preparation for Jet-Hot coating. It will be very visible in the engine compartment, and I want it to look good. Leaving it in this state will cause it to rust almost immediately. The Jet-Hot coating will also be needed to help reduce the underhood temperatures. |
To check the fit and clearance in the engine compartment, the stock header and cooling fan were removed. After bolting up the new turbo manifold and mounting the turbo to it, I could see that there won't be a lot of room to route things. |
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The greatest concern will be how close the turbine housing is to the bottom of the hood - only a couple of inches. The Jet-Hot coating is probably a necessity to prevent the paint on the hood from getting damaged. |
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I had purchased a handful of end fittings that will connect the turbo coolant lines. This photo shows that a 45-degree angle isn't going to do it, so I'm gonna have to put a 90 on there. A water-cooled model was chosen because of the intense flogging the car receives during sessions on the road course. It should add a bit to its longevity and allow it to run a bit cooler, and the car shouldn't need a turbo timer either. |
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From this view, you can see the intended direction of the compressor outlet. It will point down and forward, and an elbow will route the pipe toward the passenger side of the car where the intercooler inlet will be. |
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Since the most difficult fit under the hood will be the exhaust (and its routing will dictate where everything else can be routed), it was time to start working on it. The pile of U-bends and other parts on the left will need to be turned into a downpipe. |
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The downturned elbow from the turbine housing needs to be pretty sharp and tight in order to clear the wastegate and its outlet. |
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Lots of measuring, visualizing, fitting, cutting, and welding was required to create the smooth S-shaped pipe and route it between the block and engine cradle crossmember. |
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Even though the crossmember is notched in my '92 (I believe some later years are not), it was still very difficult to get the 2 3/4" diameter pipe through that opening. It left only a few millimeters of clearance on each side. Even so, I think I'll probably grind down one of the reinforcement ribs on the front of the engine block to give it an extra few millimeters. |
After the hours and hours that this small piece of the downpipe took, I was tired of it and it was now time again to switch gears and work on something else.
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